In Good Taste #86: Kimchi & cheddar fritters
Crispy-spicy little fritters that come together easily; Totoro; The Happy Couple
Well, hello there! How are you?
Good I hope.
(Not up for the chitchat? Completely get it. Click the email title to go to a web-based version then jump straight to the recipe or Cultural Fun.)
I’m well but apologetic that this didn’t go out last Thursday when it was supposed to. I’d intended to get this out whilst I was away in Devon and then take Easter week off but a phone-related mishap meant it wasn’t possible so my fallow week fell last week instead. Sorry for any confusion.
This week’s recipe was inspired by the snacks served at an event I went to a little while ago at the Cookery School at Little Portland Street. Entitled Fermentation and the Gourmet Gut it was a panel discussion featuring sourdough expert Dan Lepard, “scientist who cooks” Dr Johnny Drain, Silo restaurant’s fermentation whizz-kid Ryan Walker, Michelin-starred chef Chantelle Nicholson from Apricity, Chetanya Alexander of Tickles’ Pickles and colorectal surgeon Dr James Kinross (whose book about the gut, Dark Matter, I am currently really enjoying).
If you’re thinking: “That’s rather a lot of people to have on a panel discussion. I can’t imagine any of them got to say more than a few sentences…” then you would be absolutely right. It was interesting and frustrating in equal measure. Nevertheless it provided a lot of inspirational starting points for further research on everything from gut health to waste reduction.
Before the discussion Chantelle served kimchi fritters which were delicious. Her recipe is online but I wanted to create something that a) didn’t require the faff of deep frying and b) included cheese for an extra savoury kick. This what I came up with. I hope you like them and also have a happy Easter.
I’ll be back at the usual time next week with another recipe and some Devonian Cultural Fun.
Recipe: Kimchi & Cheddar fritters
Makes approximately 20 fritters.
Ingredients
2 eggs
200g kimchi
50ml milk
100g strong cheddar, grated
75g plain flour
75g rice flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon gochugaru
Vegetable oil for frying
Lime (to serve)
Method
Separate the eggs. Separate the eggs, putting the yolks in a food processor and the whites in large bowl.
Make the batter. Add half the kimchi and the milk to the yolks and blitz until relatively smooth. Scrape this mixture into a bowl and stir in the rest of the kimchi, the grated cheese, both flours, both raising agents and the chilli flakes. Taste and add a little salt if necessary.
Whisk the eggs whites and finish the mixture. Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks. Stir one spoonful into the kimchi mixture to loosen it then carefully fold through the rest.
Fry and serve. Put a frying pan over a medium-high heat and add a little vegetable or other neutral oil. Even in a non-stick pan use a little oil to make things nice and crispy. When the oil is hot cook the mixture in batches, adding tablespoons of batter and frying until golden brown and crispy (about 1 minute) before flipping and cooking the other side. Remove from the pan and drain on kitchen paper, whilst frying the rest. Serve immediately with lime wedges for squeezing over. I also made a quick coriander mayo which went well too.
Notes (If Ifs And Ands Were Pots And Pans…)
Use all plain flour if you prefer. I like the rice flour as it gives extra crispness.
Keep the fritters reasonable small so they cook through without getting over-browned on the outside.
Work quickly as otherwise the “lift” created by the raising agents will escape and the fritters will be dense.
Use any kimchi you like but an older, more acidic one will work best. No need to drain it, just add the brine to the batter.
Cultural Fun
James and I went to see My Neighbour Totoro and it was exactly as magical as the quotes of the poster had led us to believe it would be!
The stage adaptation of the Studio Ghibli classic was done with puppets ranging in size from tiny butterflies and soot sprites up to a giant, stage-filling Totoro.
The bulk of him and his smile were just wonderful. His little friends and the Catbus were also beautifully done, each genuinely seeming alive even though you could clearly see their operators. It was a perfect combination of childlike wonder and Shinto spiritualism.
The music was fairly unmemorable (except for a jaunty Catbus theme and a rousing song about Tototo near the end) but doesn’t matter as it’s more soundtrack than proper numbers that demand attention. Highly recommended, especially with kids.
I read The Happy Couple by Naoise Dolan and really enjoyed it (I also loved her debut, Exciting Times). Since it follows young Irish people falling behaving badly in relationships combinations to Sally Rooney seem inevitable but her touch is lighter and funnier.
You get to see the central engaged couple, Celine and Luke, from several different perspectives, their own as well as various family members, friends and exes. Each adds new information plus layered misunderstandings and misinterpretations of motive in a way that made me think of The Corrections. Although, again, not half as bleak.
Bye! See you next week!
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That event sounds amazing and what an all-star group!